Llaqtapata

Tickets and tours: which to book

Nothing is sold online for Llaqtapata on its own. There is no ticket office, no fence and no road: the ruins lie on the trail, and you visit them simply by walking there.

Almost everyone comes on a guided Salkantay trek from Cusco. The usual four- or five-day route crosses the high pass below Salkantay mountain, descends through cloud forest to the Santa Teresa area and then, on the last trekking day, climbs from the coffee farms of Lucmabamba over the Llaqtapata ridge before descending to Hidroelectrica and walking along the railway to Aguas Calientes. Trek prices normally include the guide, camping or lodges, meals, mules for bags and the return train or bus, while the Machu Picchu ticket may or may not be included, so check.

Independent hikers can do the same walk from Santa Teresa with a local map or a guide hired in town; the path is clear in the dry season but steep, and there is little help on the way. Some lodge-to-lodge versions of the trek stay near Llaqtapata for a night.

For most people the sensible choice is a reputable Salkantay trek that keeps the Llaqtapata day rather than taking a shortcut by vehicle to Hidroelectrica.

A short history

Llaqtapata was built by the Incas, probably in the 15th century, when Machu Picchu was laid out as a royal estate. It stood on a branch of the Inca road network that ran from Machu Picchu west into the Vilcabamba region. Hiram Bingham passed it in 1912 and noted ten or a dozen buildings and a local name meaning an elevated town, but he did not study it. Seventy years and more went by before a survey led by Hugh Thomson and Gary Ziegler in 2003 mapped a much larger complex. They suggested that it served as a roadside shrine and resting place on the approach to Machu Picchu, with an astronomical role at the solstices.

Getting there

Llaqtapata can only be reached on foot. The nearest town is Santa Teresa, about five to six hours by road from Cusco via the Abra Malaga pass; colectivos leave from Cusco for Santa Maria and Santa Teresa daily. From Santa Teresa a short taxi ride takes you to Lucmabamba, where the trail climbs to the ruins in about three hours. On the far side, the path descends to Hidroelectrica, where trains leave for Aguas Calientes and minibuses return to Santa Teresa and Cusco. The nearest airport is Cusco, which has frequent flights from Lima. There is no parking at the site; leave vehicles in Santa Teresa or Lucmabamba.

Rules and what to bring

Treat the ruins with care: do not climb on walls, move stones or camp inside the buildings. Drones are not permitted near Machu Picchu and its protected area. Carry plenty of water, snacks, sun protection, insect repellent, a rain jacket and proper walking boots with grip. There are no toilets or services at the ruins themselves, so use the farms and lodges along the trail and carry out all your rubbish.

When to go

The dry season from May to September is the best time: paths are firmer, skies clearer and the view across to Machu Picchu more likely to be open. June, July and August are also the busiest months on the Salkantay trek, and campsites near the route fill up. The rainy season from December to March brings mud, slippery steps and frequent cloud, and the Inca Trail itself closes in February, which pushes more hikers onto alternative routes.

On any day, aim to reach the ridge by mid-morning. Cloud rises from the valleys as the day warms, and by midday the view is often lost. Most trek groups leave Lucmabamba at dawn for this reason. Allow a full trekking day from Lucmabamba to Aguas Calientes, of which about an hour is spent at the ruins and the viewpoint.