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Ancient City · Egyptian · Egypt
Bubastis (Tell Basta)
Bubastis, now the mound of Tell Basta on the edge of Zagazig in the Nile Delta, was the city of the cat goddess Bastet and for a time the seat of the pharaohs of the 22nd Dynasty. Its great temple is a field of toppled red granite blocks, many carved for Ramesses II. Few foreign visitors come, which makes it a rare quiet pharaonic site near Cairo.
Why visitWorth it for travellers interested in Egyptology who want to see a major Delta temple city without crowds.
TicketA modest fee in Egyptian pounds at the gate
Time needed1 to 2 hours
OpenRoughly 9 am to 4 pm or 5 pm, as at most Egyptian sites
Photo: Einsamer Schütze, CC BY-SA 3.0
Tickets and tours: which to book
Nothing for Bubastis alone is sold online, and it is rarely part of the standard group itineraries out of Cairo. Entry works the old-fashioned way: you buy a ticket at the office by the entrance and walk the site on your own, sometimes accompanied by a guard who will point out the main blocks and statues and expect a small tip.
Most visitors come in one of two ways. The first is a private car with driver from Cairo, booked through a hotel or a local travel agency, which allows a day in the eastern Delta combining Bubastis with Tanis, the other great royal city of the region, further north-east. The second is to travel independently by train to Zagazig and take a taxi from the station; this is cheap and straightforward, but there is little English spoken locally and almost no signage.
A specialist Egyptologist guide, hired privately in Cairo, adds a great deal here, because the temple is a jumble of fallen stone and the inscriptions are hard to read without help. The sensible plan for most people is a private driver for a full day, with a guide if your budget allows, and Bubastis as the first stop before Tanis.
What to see at Bubastis (Tell Basta)
Temple of Bastet
From the entrance, walk to the heart of the site, where the great temple of the goddess once stood between two canals. Today it is a broad field of fallen red granite columns, architraves and wall blocks. Look for the cartouches of Ramesses II and for the reliefs of the festival hall added by Osorkon II of the 22nd Dynasty.
Colossus of Meritamun
Near the temple area stands the restored colossal statue of Queen Meritamun, daughter and wife of Ramesses II, one of the most striking finds at the site. Around it, in the open-air display, are other statues, column fragments and inscribed blocks raised onto bases so they can be seen at eye level. This is the best spot for photographs.
Tickets and tours that include Bubastis (Tell Basta)
Live prices from GetYourGuide for tickets and tours that include this site. Free cancellation on most of them.
Ka temples of Teti and Pepi I
A short walk away lie the low brick and stone remains of two Old Kingdom chapels built for the royal spirit of the kings Teti and Pepi I of the 6th Dynasty. They are modest to look at, but they show that the city was already important more than four thousand years ago, long before the great temple was built.
Middle Kingdom palace
On the northern part of the mound, excavators uncovered a large governors' palace of the 12th Dynasty, covering about 16,000 square metres, with a cemetery to its east. Only foundations and mud-brick walls remain, but the plan of courts and rooms is clear in places. It has been linked to Amenemhat III, shown on a lintel at his jubilee festival.
Cat cemetery
Bubastis was the main burial place in Egypt for the sacred cats of Bastet. The cemetery lies a little away from the temple, where brick-lined pits and galleries once held thousands of cat mummies and bronze figures. Ask the guards whether the area can be visited; there is often little to see on the surface, but the story is the point.
A short history
A settlement stood here by the end of the 4th millennium BC, on the Pelusiac branch of the Nile near the route east to Sinai. The cult of Bastet is recorded from the 2nd Dynasty, Old Kingdom kings built chapels here, and the Middle Kingdom added a large palace. Ramesses II enlarged the temple and set up colossal statues. The city peaked when Shoshenq I, founder of the 22nd Dynasty, made it a royal residence after 943 BC. Herodotus later described its temple and its riotous annual festival. Bubastis declined after the Persian conquest of 525 BC, when its walls were pulled down. Edouard Naville excavated the temple in the late 1880s; Egyptian and German teams still work here.
Getting there
Zagazig, the capital of Sharqia, is about 80 km north-east of Cairo. Trains leave Cairo's Ramses station frequently and take about an hour to an hour and a half; microbuses also run from Cairo. Tell Basta lies on the south-eastern edge of Zagazig, a short taxi ride from the railway station; agree the fare first or ask the driver to wait. From Cairo airport it is about an hour and a quarter by car, depending on traffic. Driving yourself is possible but tiring because of Delta traffic, so most visitors hire a car with driver for the day. Police checkpoints are routine on Delta roads: carry your passport.
Rules and what to bring
Do not climb on the statues or fallen blocks, and do not take anything from the ground: removing antiquities is a serious offence in Egypt. Drones are banned without a permit. Photography for personal use is normally allowed. There is very little shade, so bring water, a hat and sun cream, and wear closed shoes for the rough ground. Facilities on site are basic; plan to eat in Zagazig and carry small notes for tips.
When to go
Bubastis is almost never crowded. You are more likely to meet local school groups or families from Zagazig than foreign tourists, and even then mostly on Fridays and holidays. Go in the morning, when the light is clear and the heat bearable, and before the ticket office closes in mid-afternoon.
The best months are October to April. Winter days are mild and sunny, though early mornings in the Delta can be misty. From May to September temperatures regularly pass 35 degrees and the open site offers almost no shade, so arrive at opening and leave by late morning. During Ramadan opening hours at Egyptian sites are often shortened, so check before setting out. If you are combining Bubastis with Tanis, start early from Cairo, because the drive between the two takes over an hour. Allow one to two hours here, more if you are following the inscriptions closely.
Combine it with
Tanis, the royal city of the 21st and 22nd Dynasties with its fallen obelisks and royal tombs, lies about 70 km north-east, roughly an hour and a half by car, and makes the natural pair on a Delta day. The finest objects from both sites, including gold from the Tanis royal tombs, are shown in Cairo.
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At a glance
| Hours | Roughly 9 am to 4 pm or 5 pm, as at most Egyptian sites; check locally |
|---|---|
| Closed | Usually open daily |
| Entry fee | A modest fee in Egyptian pounds at the gate |
| Time needed | 1 to 2 hours |
| Best time | Morning; October to April, avoiding the summer heat |
| Booking | No booking; pay at the ticket office |
| Access | Uneven ground among fallen blocks, dusty paths and little shade; not suited to wheelchairs |
| Getting there | Train from Cairo Ramses to Zagazig, about 1 to 1.5 hours, then a short taxi ride |
| Excavated | 1887 |
| Civilisation | Egyptian |
| Checked | October 2026 |
Frequently asked questions
When is Bubastis (Tell Basta) open?
Roughly 9 am to 4 pm or 5 pm, as at most Egyptian sites; check locally. Closed: Usually open daily.
How much is the entry fee for Bubastis (Tell Basta)?
Entry fee: A modest fee in Egyptian pounds at the gate.
How long do you need at Bubastis (Tell Basta)?
Allow 1 to 2 hours for Bubastis (Tell Basta).
Do I need to book Bubastis (Tell Basta) in advance?
No booking; pay at the ticket office.
Can I book a ticket or tour for Bubastis (Tell Basta) online?
Yes. GetYourGuide sells tickets and guided tours whose route includes Bubastis (Tell Basta); live prices are shown on this page.
When is the best time to visit Bubastis (Tell Basta)?
Morning; October to April, avoiding the summer heat.
How do I get to Bubastis (Tell Basta)?
Train from Cairo Ramses to Zagazig, about 1 to 1.5 hours, then a short taxi ride.
Is Bubastis (Tell Basta) accessible, and what is the terrain like?
Uneven ground among fallen blocks, dusty paths and little shade; not suited to wheelchairs.
Is Bubastis (Tell Basta) worth visiting?
Worth it for travellers interested in Egyptology who want to see a major Delta temple city without crowds. Skip it on a first trip to Egypt: the remains are fallen and scattered, and Giza, Saqqara and Luxor show far more.