Ancient City · Maya · Mexico
Tonina
Tonina is a Maya city in the highlands of Chiapas, 13 km east of Ocosingo, whose acropolis climbs seven terraces to about 74 metres above the main plaza. Famous for stucco reliefs and carved sculptures in the round, it was Palenque's great rival and carries the last known Long Count date, AD 909.
Photo: Dge, CC BY-SA 4.0
Tonina tickets: which one for you
Our pick for each kind of visit, with live dates and prices from GetYourGuide. Free cancellation on most.
Best for: A day trip from San Cristobal
Transport over the mountains, time at the acropolis and a swim stop at waterfalls near Ocosingo, the easiest way to see Tonina from the highland base.
- Staying in Palenque: Trip to the archaeological zone of tonina and the xanil waterfalls Starts from Palenque so you can compare the two rival cities, with a waterfall stop on the way, for travellers already in the lowlands.
- Food lovers in Ocosingo: San cristobal sightseeing tour to tonina and the queso de bola route Combines the ruins with the local cheese-making tradition of the Ocosingo valley, a relaxed half day for those based nearby.
Tickets and tours: all the options
Tonina is run by INAH, the national heritage institute, and entry is a simple gate ticket in pesos; the site museum is included. There is no online booking or timed entry, and queues are almost unknown, because few foreign travellers reach this valley. Local guides can sometimes be hired at the entrance and are worth it, since signs on the terraces are brief.
The tours sold online solve the transport question. The main format is a day trip from San Cristobal de las Casas, about two and a half hours each way, that pairs the ruins with a swim at waterfalls near Ocosingo; transport and a driver-guide are included, while entry fees and lunch are often extra. A similar trip runs from Palenque, and a shorter tour from Ocosingo adds a visit to the valley's cheese makers.
Independent travellers can take a bus or colectivo to Ocosingo and a shared taxi or colectivo for the last 13 km, then pay at the gate. Ask locally about the state of the roads, as protests and roadblocks occasionally affect travel in this part of Chiapas. For most visitors based in San Cristobal, the guided day trip is the sensible choice.
What to see at Tonina
Great Plaza and ball court
From the entrance and museum, a path crosses a stream to the Great Plaza at the foot of the acropolis. On one side lies a sunken ball court, where sculpted figures of bound captives once projected from the walls as markers. Stand in the plaza first to take in the whole hillside of terraces rising above you.
Mural of the Four Eras
Climbing the first terraces, look for the large stucco frieze known as the Mural of the Four Eras, protected under a roof. It shows a skeletal death figure holding a severed head among feathered panels that frame the ages of the world. It is one of the finest pieces of Maya stucco anywhere, and the detail repays a long look.
3 tickets and tours for Tonina
Live dates and prices from GetYourGuide. Free cancellation on most tickets.
Palace of the Underworld
On a lower terrace, a maze of narrow passages and dark chambers known as the Palace of the Underworld leads into the hillside. Walk through the corridors with a torch or phone light, stooping in places. The building may have been used for rituals tied to death and rebirth, and it is a cool refuge from the sun.
Upper terraces and temples
Higher up, steep staircases lead past temples and platforms to the uppermost level, where the Temple of the Smoking Mirror stands. The steps are tall and narrow, so climb slowly. From the top, the view runs across the green Ocosingo valley and the mountains towards the Lacandon forest.
Site museum
Back at the entrance, the museum holds many of the carved monuments that made Tonina famous: stelae and statues carved fully in the round, and portraits of kings and captives. Look for the figure of a bound prisoner from Palenque. Visiting it at the end helps place what you have seen on the terraces.
A short history
Tonina was occupied from the Early Classic, with a king mentioned as ruling in AD 217, though most of its monuments date from the 6th to the 9th centuries. Its kings, whose title refers to the city's old name Po, built an aggressive state in the Late Classic and fought Palenque for much of their history. In 711 Tonina captured Palenque's ruler K'an Joy Chitam II, and it later became the dominant power in the western Maya region. Monument 101 carries the date 15 January 909, the last known Long Count date on any Maya monument. Modern excavation by Mexican and French teams has restored much of the acropolis.
Getting there
Ocosingo is the nearest town. From San Cristobal de las Casas the road takes about two and a half hours by bus, colectivo or car, and from Palenque about the same, through mountainous country. The nearest airport is Tuxtla Gutierrez, about 3.5 hours away; Palenque also has a small airport. From the market area in Ocosingo, colectivos and shared taxis run east to Tonina in about 20 minutes; a private taxi will wait or return later by arrangement. Drivers follow signs for the archaeological zone along a paved road and can park free by the museum. From the entrance it is a short walk to the plaza.
Rules and what to bring
Do not touch the stucco friezes or carved stone, and stay off fenced areas on the terraces. Drones need INAH permission. The steps are very steep, so do not climb in sandals or in heavy rain. Bring water, a hat, sunscreen and a torch for the dark passages; toilets are at the entrance and there may be a simple snack stall, but buy food in Ocosingo.
When to go
The dry season from November to April is the best time to visit, with firmer paths and clearer views from the top, though March and April are hot on the exposed terraces. From June to October heavy rain falls most afternoons and the steps become slippery, so plan the climb for the morning.
Arrive at opening if you can: the light on the hillside is softer, the heat is lower and you may have the acropolis almost to yourself. Tours from San Cristobal and Palenque tend to arrive from late morning, but even then the site is rarely busy. Mexican holidays around Easter and Christmas bring local families. Allow two hours for the climb and the main buildings, plus 30 to 45 minutes for the museum, and leave time for the long drive back before dark, as night driving on mountain roads is best avoided.
Combine it with
Most day trips add waterfalls near Ocosingo for a swim after the climb. On the road between Ocosingo and Palenque, the Agua Azul cascades and the Misol-Ha waterfall are popular stops, and Palenque itself is about two and a half hours north. San Cristobal de las Casas makes the best base for the highlands.
At a glance
| Hours | About 9 am to 5 pm; the site museum may keep shorter hours |
|---|---|
| Closed | Ruins open daily; the museum may close on Mondays |
| Entry fee | Small INAH fee in MXN; free on Sundays for Mexican residents |
| Time needed | 2 to 3 hours |
| Best time | At opening, before the heat; November to April, the dry season |
| Booking | Pay at the gate; book a tour for transport from San Cristobal or Palenque |
| Access | Very steep, high stone steps up seven terraces; little shade; the plaza and museum are easier |
| Getting there | Colectivo or taxi from Ocosingo, about 20 minutes; from San Cristobal about 2.5 hours by road |
| Civilisation | Maya |
| Height | 71 m (Acropolis, seven terraces above the Great Plaza) |
| Checked | October 2026 |
Frequently asked questions
When is Tonina open?
About 9 am to 5 pm; the site museum may keep shorter hours. Closed: Ruins open daily; the museum may close on Mondays.
How much is the entry fee for Tonina?
Entry fee: Small INAH fee in MXN; free on Sundays for Mexican residents.
How long do you need at Tonina?
Allow 2 to 3 hours for Tonina.
Do I need to book Tonina in advance?
Pay at the gate; book a tour for transport from San Cristobal or Palenque.
Can I book a ticket or tour for Tonina online?
Yes. GetYourGuide lists 3 tickets and tours for Tonina, with live dates and prices and free cancellation on most of them.
When is the best time to visit Tonina?
At opening, before the heat; November to April, the dry season.
How do I get to Tonina?
Colectivo or taxi from Ocosingo, about 20 minutes; from San Cristobal about 2.5 hours by road.
Is Tonina accessible, and what is the terrain like?
Very steep, high stone steps up seven terraces; little shade; the plaza and museum are easier.
Is Tonina worth visiting?
Worth it for a steep climb through a terraced Maya acropolis with striking stucco friezes and few other visitors. Skip it if you have only one Maya site in Chiapas, where Palenque comes first, or if long mountain drives tire you.