Huaca del Dragon (Huaca Arco Iris)

Tickets and tours: which to book

Nothing for Huaca del Dragon alone is sold on GetYourGuide. Entry is on the combined ticket of the Chan Chan archaeological complex, which also covers the Nik An (Tschudi) palace at Chan Chan, the site museum and Huaca Esmeralda. It is bought at the first site you visit and is normally valid for a couple of days, so you do not have to see everything at once.

Local guides wait at the entrance of the main Chan Chan palace and sometimes at the huaca itself, and charge a separate fee for a short tour. A guide is worthwhile here, because the panels are brief and the meaning of the friezes is not obvious.

Most visitors see the huaca on a half-day or full-day tour from Trujillo or Huanchaco, sold by agencies in both towns, which covers Chan Chan, its museum, Huaca Esmeralda and Huaca del Dragon in one loop. These tours include transport and a guide, with entry and lunch usually extra. A second common tour covers the Moche temples of the Sun and the Moon south of the city. Independent travellers can do the Chan Chan circuit by taxi, agreeing a price for waiting time. The sensible plan is a guided morning tour of the Chan Chan sites, with this huaca as the last or first stop.

A short history

Huaca del Dragon was a religious and administrative centre on the northern edge of the Moche Valley. Its builders are debated: many archaeologists date its first phases to the period before the Chimu took control of the valley, with influences from earlier cultures, and the Chimu later reused and decorated it. The Chimu, whose capital Chan Chan stood a few kilometres west, ruled the north coast until the Inca conquered them around 1470. The temple was buried by sand, uncovered by archaeologists in 1963 and heavily restored. The rainbow and serpent friezes probably relate to water, rain and fertility in this desert valley.

Getting there

The huaca stands in the La Esperanza district on the northern edge of Trujillo, about 4 km from the Plaza de Armas. A taxi takes about 15 minutes; agree the fare before you set off, or ask the driver to wait while you visit. Local buses run north along the main avenues, but the last part of the route through residential streets is easier by taxi. Trujillo airport, with flights from Lima of about an hour, lies on the road to Huanchaco about 15 minutes away. Overnight buses from Lima take about nine hours. Drivers can park by the entrance wall. From Chan Chan or Huanchaco the drive takes about 20 minutes.

Rules and what to bring

Do not touch the friezes or climb on the walls: the adobe is fragile and erodes easily. Stay on the ramps and marked areas, and ask before flying a drone. Bring a hat and sun cream, since the coastal sun is strong even under the grey skies, and water. There are basic toilets at the entrance, but no cafe. Keep valuables out of sight in the taxi and on the way in, as the surrounding district is residential.

When to go

The north coast of Peru is a desert, and it hardly ever rains, so the huaca can be visited at any time of year. From December to April the weather is warmer and sunnier, while from May to November skies are often grey in the mornings and the air is cooler. In years of El Nino, heavy rain can fall and damage the adobe, and sites may close for repairs.

The huaca is small and seldom crowded. Tour groups doing the Chan Chan circuit arrive in waves from mid-morning, but spend only half an hour inside. Come early or at lunchtime to have it almost to yourself. Trujillo's spring festival in late September and the marinera dance festival in late January bring more visitors to the city. Allow 30 to 45 minutes here, and about half a day for the full Chan Chan circuit.